In all my visits to Maui, it’s a little bit ridiculous that I’ve never driven the Road to Hana, considering it is inarguably Hawaii’s best-known roadtrip, and actually one of the world’s most loved, as well! (In my defence, I did try to go last time I was here, but I was visiting mum and she simply refused to go on account of the drive being too painful.) Now, after doing the drive myself, I can finally understand mum’s hesitation— there are hundreds of hairpin turns winding up and down the forested cliffside, forcing you uncomfortably close to oncoming cars on the one lane road, and a surprisingly build-up of traffic for a Hawaiian island— but ultimately, it’s an adventure, and a beautiful one at that!

Sun Yat Sen Park

One of our first stops of the morning was this Asian-inspired garden overlooking the volcano and the west side of the island. Both approaching and driving away from this park, there are a number of (somewhat sketchy) road widenings where you could pull over for even better views, if you’re prepared to stop quickly.

Pipiwai Trail & Bamboo Forest

The one thing I had read about on the Road to Hana that I simply had to do was the hike along Pipiwai Trail to Waimoku Falls. Entry into the park was $20, payable by credit card, and then the walk departs from a little visitor’s centre. The trail is fairly moderate and not more than a few kilometres, but the heat can often make it feel more challenging than it is. The reward for all the sweat, though, is a collection of beautiful little waterfalls, a walk through the amazing (and well-shaded!!) Bamboo Forest, and a view up to the towering Waimoku Falls. If you only do one thing, make sure it’s this hike!

Waimoku Falls

Once at the end of the Pipiwai Trail, you reach Waimoku Falls, an incredibly tall waterfall cascading over a black cliff that is all-too-tempting to just throw yourself under. To get closer to the falls, you walk directly behind the sign that says “don’t pass this point”, which I felt a bit bad about, but Callum had already disappeared beyond it and I was trying to catch up to get some of his Gatorade, so.

Waianapanapa State Park

Rated one of the best beaches in the world, this stunning black sand beach is flanked by palm trees, tropical flowers, and lush green vegetation, but looks slightly other-worldly just because of the pitch black sand. We didn’t hop out of the car for a swim here as we would have liked, but even driving by and snapping a few photos was beautiful.

Hana & the Rainbow Eucalyptus trees

By the time we finally reached Hana, we were more than a little wilted by the driving and the heat, so we just settled for some nibbles at a little café. Only minutes after being back in the car, though, we had to pull over for more fresh air— coincidentally, pulling over right next to the famous Rainbow Eucalyptus trees that line a small section of the Hana Highway. It was pure luck that we even got to see these incredibly colourful trees, but I’m so glad we did!

Recommendations for driving the road to Hana

After our experience on the Road to Hana, there were certainly some mixed feelings (and perhaps some less-than-mixed feelings, as carsickness claimed a few victims). Despite all this, I’d still recommend the drive, just with some modifications to make sure it’s more enjoyable.

Avoid Hana Highway

Yes, I know Hana Highway is the Road to Hana, but you can enjoy so many of the wonderful stops without having to endure hours on this torturous road. We drove along the south coast from Lahaina to Hana, on the recommendation of our waiter the previous night, and this proved a far less crowded and winding alternative to the Hana Highway we took on our way back. (I can only imagine the state we would have been in if we drove the Hana Highway both ways, but one way was still more than enough for some roadside vomiting to occur.) If you’re going to tackle to whole drive in a single day, I strongly recommend taking the southern route, perhaps continuing past Hana for a little if there’s something you simply can’t miss, and then retracing that southern route back home. As you can see, there’s still plenty to see on do on the southern route!

Allow more time

Alternatively, just allow more time! We missed out on a lot of great stops because we were all feeling too ill to enjoy ourselves and just wanted to get home. The first half of the drive was where all the fun happened, so perhaps the experience would have been better if we broke it into 2 days and stayed the night in Hana. Not only does it give you the opportunity to recover after a stressful day of driving before you embark on the other half of the journey, it also gives you more time to explore the hikes, waterfalls, and beaches that make the Road to Hana so worthwhile in the first place.

Come prepared

Perhaps this was a problem unique to us— as we were pulled over for another vomit on the side of the road, an American couple could be heard shouting “this is such a fun road to drive!”— but if you find yourself at all prone to carsickness, are unfamiliar with driving on the right-hand side of the road, or are just generally not amused by narrow and winding single-lane roads, then do yourself a favour and prepare. Whether that means bringing Dramamine, getting an open-air car, having a few days to practice driving in Hawaii before setting out on the road trip, or just designating someone to drive who won’t be frazzled by the road conditions, having realistic expectations of the drive and preparing accordingly will save a lot of pain and really maximise the fun.

Now, if I haven’t totally frightened everyone away from their own Road to Hana trip, let me just say that it’s one of the most beautiful places you’ll ever explore, simply overflowing with natural wonders, and a well-planned trip will undoubtedly leave you dying to come back. I think I’d have to drug and bind Callum to get him to ever do the drive with me again, but I just can’t rule it out—I need the opportunity to do it all over and actually follow my own advice.